 | EZ Tank - Gold Wing Fuel Cells
Frequently Asked Questions
Q---I am interested in an auxiliary fuel tank. I have seen your design
and like it. Can you tell me how to acquire one of these fuel cells?
A---The first thing I need to clarify is that the "Fuel Cell" is simply a
"liquid container" that just happens to fit nicely on the back seat of a
Wing (disclaimer) It was designed by Ron Smith and a riding friend and has
since become popular with those who ride long distances.
If you are interested in more information for your own application,
please read on.
I have had questions from several people and attempted to answer them
here to help you make your decision.
We welcome questions that can be
added here or just general stuff.
Q---What about availability?
A---I normally try to keep one tank in inventory and can have another made
up in about two weeks.
Q---What is the cost of one of these tanks?
A---The cost varies with the configuration but a complete system normally
runs about $550.00
Q---Why the variation?
A---Some riders wish to change either the mounting system or fuel feeding
system so the overall cost will depend on the parts required. Some have
developed their own mounting system that works well for their
application.
Q---I am thinking about ordering a custom seat for my Wing, do you have
suggestions?
A---Yes, Russell has built seats after the purchase of these tanks and
they really do a great job of working the tank design into their product.
The tank is designed to allow for complete opening of the trunk so
overall passenger seat height is a consideration when seat modifications
will be made.
Q---I've heard a lot of good about the Champion Side Car saddle bag aux
tanks. Reports are that they are pretty much trouble free if installed
correctly and can be removed in about 5
minutes if need be?
A---First of all, both the California Sidecar and the Tulsa
tank were looked at and their quality and design was without question. They both have a
well designed and well built product.
The problem was with the flexibility and balance of the bike in the
various uses that were put to it.
After lengthy discussions with both of them it was learned that clothing
should not be stored in the minimal space left due to the gas smell and
that smell may linger even with the tank removed. The bike would be out
of balance - first with a full tank and again with an empty one due to
loading. To counteract the space problem, several people simply purchase
storage packs for their clothing and lash it to the rear seat. This
gives them an easy way to add or remove the pack when necessary and they
also learn to counteract the off-balance conditions.
These tanks also can be added or removed quite quickly - four quick release
latches on the tie down straps and one fuel disconnect
As far as both the other suppliers, I respect the work they have done on
their product and highly recommend them if this fits your needs.
Q---What tank should I buy?
A---Do not feel obligated to purchase mine---I respect your decision for
your purposes. Just like our choice in Bikes, distances or routes - It's
your choice. I will try to help with any questions you
may have.
Q---Do you see any design changes in the near future?
A---Yes, A quick release mechanism cap that will save a
little time when refueling.
Q---Are these caps "lockable"?
A---No, at the present time I have not found a lock for either cap. If
you are traveling and need to hit a motel, and this may sound dumb - butt
simply unsnap the tank and take it in with you.....
Q---What is required to install one of your tanks?
A---The biggest part is welding a fitting to the plate that holds the
fuel pump in the main tank and repositioning the ground wire. I looked
for other methods but found problems with each one and this one seems to
work best.
Two holes must be drilled in the front of the trunk for the mounting
plate for the rear (quick disconnect) straps and the bolt for the front
of the grab handles must be replaced with longer ones to keep the front
straps in place. I can supply these also.
I have seen one installation that uses a California Sidecar "bung" equipped with two tubes for access into the main tank rather than the
welding process. One tube is used for fuel access and the other is for the
vent.
With this method the normal vented Honda cap must be replaced with a
non-vented one (due to fuel door clearance).
This system works quite well as long as one remembers when to cap and
when to open the remaining vent tube. The vent tube must be capped when
the aux tank is on and uncapped when the aux is removed.
Q---Tell me more about the tie down method?
A---This is a very simple two part system. First there is a base to
protect the upholstery and the second is a top cover that includes two
longitudinal straps. This is a simple method that is easily installed or
removed depending on your requirements.
I like to use the same material used for the front of cars or boat tops
and nylon for the straps. These are constructed by Rich's custom
upholstery for me and represent about $200 of the price but well worth
it. Some have built there own and I encourage alternative methods due to
the cost.
I had a small foam filled piece added to the front of the tank for a
backrest and a large pocket on the top for a folder for my trip logs but
feel the cost was a little high. I can get estimates if this sounds
interesting for you. The development work is already done on these two
items.
Q---You found any problems with the tank or the gravity flow system?
A---Yes. if you are running in high elevations and/or high temps, the
gravity
flow system may stop
working. This seems to be more prevelant with gasahol but the fact
remains you either have to wait until either the temps or elevation drop
or you "burp" the main tank.For a quick solution, I had a key made to fit
my
fuel door, cut
it down and glued a small radio button on the top so I could open the
fuel door while underway and burp the tank if needed.
Another problem is the routine we use when on the road. I reverse my
routine so I take care of personal things first and fill last. If you
let the bike sit in hot sun for any length of time you must turn the aux
off or the fuel in the main will expand and flow back up into the aux
causing an overfill situation and fuel on both the bike and ground.
Tests I made found that the stock Honda cap will not allow fuel to be
dumped into the atmosphere. This fuel system normally works on a few
inches of vacuum but when cold fuel is added to the main during hot
weather (and with a hot engine directly below) the fuel will be heated
and it expands creating pressure that could restrict flow of the gravity
system or even back up into the aux. The only problems experienced are easily overcome and that seems to be the norm for other
riders that have fed information back to me.
I use only marine grade connectors and valve ( part of the expense) and the
tank is pressure tested before shipping. (I do not like failures when
I'm out alone) Mine are hand cut and welded so the capacity may vary a
little from tank to tank butt gearing up for major production would drive
the cost out of sight.
Q---How does the tank connect into the main tank. I have seen this tank
using either a modified gas cap to gravity/syphon/vacuum pump the fuel
into the main tank, and where someone drilled a hole into there main
tank and added a nipple fitting gravity feed into the main tank. I would
prefer the gas cap method if there are no real differences on performance
between the two. I just prefer not to have to drill too many holes in
items
not easily replaced at a later date.
A--- I usually have a hole drilled in the plate that holds the fuel pump
and a fitting welded into place, I have a pictures of this type of
installation that will help guide you in this process. One installation
uses a "bung" fromCalifornia sidecar that goes between the cap and the
main tank. This bung has two penetrations (small pipes) on the side, one
for transferring
the fuel and one for the vent. When the aux tank is on, the vent must
be plugged to prevent spillage and the aux becomes the vent. When the
aux is not in use, the vent is uncapped. This installation requires
replacing any vented caps with a non vented one.
Q---Do you reccomend a fuel filter between the aux tank and the main
tank?
A---This is your choice butt remember anything added will increase the
overall fuel capacity of the system. The stock filter seems to be taking
care of any filtering needed.
Q---What about any IBA certification requirements?
A--Refer to the IBA web site. These tanks do follow those guidelines and rules. They were accepted for the 1999 Iron Butt Rally
Q---Are there any "operational" problems or considerations you have
noticed?
A---Yes. There are some things you should be aware of. High temps and
high elevations may cause the gravity flow to stop working until either is
reduced or the tank is burped and you may wish to reverse your fuel
routine.
And, this is a" biggy"
First, change your fuel filter often. Sometimes we forget how many gallons
we actually put through the fuel system and that we may be getting
questionable quality at the service stations we visit.
The next big point is:
When you dump cold or cool fuel into a warm tank, and with a warm engine
directly underneath, the fuel will heat up and expand and take the least
path
of
resistance back into the aux and overflow.
Take care of your personal stuff first, including filling out logs as the main fills,
fill the aux, grab and verify the receipt and ride.
If your bike has to sit for any length of time simply reach around and
shut the valve off to keep fuel from flowing back into the aux.
Another point to be made here is that marine quick disconnects and
a manual shut off valve in the fuel line are used. The quick disconnects have
internal shut off valves and occasionally require a moment or to to get
everything lined up and snapped in place. Attach the fuel line
before snapping the tie downs in place.
Any responsibility of using
these tanks for the storage, carrying or dispensing of fuel is fully yours.
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